On the Border in Tijuana

I learned through conversations with taxi drivers that you could declare yourself Tijuanese, a resident of Tijuana, if you lived there for many years. Many Mexican transplants did just that, adding a layer of a…

An Unexpected Place in Mulegé

A round, sunburned questionably Mexican man approached my truck and spoke in American English. I couldn’t immediately place the accent. “Where are you from?” the man asked in English. “New York,” I replied. I bit…

Rasta Vibes in Kingston JA

“Yo! Look at that white girl smoking weed in the street!” —a British male voice said. “She shouldn’t be doing that! How’d she get there?”—a female one. I heaved my hot and heavy torso around…

Coffee and Coco in Baja

I reasoned that surely there would be a little stand somewhere near the highway selling coffee. There was a campground in Puertecitos, Mexico, a tiny fishing camp with garbage, loose dogs, and tires littering the…

Being a Traveler in Medellín: 2

I entered the airport terminal, a large hallway that wound around with marble floors and stone walls. I felt a warm reception, as if I were being received by people, as I slid through the…

Being a Traveler in Medellín: 1

The warm, oily air rushed on to my face from the street. It smelled like diesel and fried dough. I walked down the sloped sidewalk to the station for El Metro, the overland train public…

Island Connection in New Jersey

I rode the Garden State Parkway in New Jersey, navigated the concrete river flowing with traffic—cars and trucks and motorcycles and cars and SUVs—four abreast, headed north. I had just left the beach at Sandy…

Roadtrip in Quintana Roo

About that road trip in Quintana Roo– I asked the attendant for directions to Tulum as I picked up a rental car in the airport in Cancún. The plan was to camp in the jungle…

Thanksgiving in London

I woke up in my own bed alone. Four white walls met my eyes. The walls held a small, nondescript room with a standing closet and two twin beds. A single window cast droopy glow…